Water filter recommendation tool
Stop guessing.
Find the filter
your water needs.
Most people buy the wrong filter — wrong type, wrong capacity, wrong problem. Answer 4 questions and get a specific recommendation matched to your actual water issue.
Find my filter →Find your filter in 4 questions
Your answers determine the filter type, not a product category we want to sell you.
What's your main water problem?
Pick the one that bothers you most. You can address others later.
Where do you need filtered water?
This determines the filter type — point-of-use or whole-home.
How comfortable are you with installation?
Honest answer — no judgment. Some filters need a plumber; others plug in.
What's your upfront budget?
Filters also have ongoing filter replacement costs — we'll show you both.
The 5 filter types, honestly compared
Each type is the right answer for a specific problem. None is universally best.
Pitcher filters
Lowest upfront cost. Filters taste and basic chlorine. Slow, needs refilling. Good for renters or low-use households.
Faucet-mount filters
Attaches directly to your tap. Instant filtered water on demand. Good for taste issues. Not compatible with all faucet types.
Under-sink filters
Hidden under the sink, dedicated tap. Handles more contaminants than pitchers or faucet mounts. Best value for serious filtering.
Reverse osmosis
Removes 95–99% of contaminants including lead, PFAS, nitrates, arsenic. Requires drain line. Best for serious water safety concerns.
Whole-home systems
Treats every tap, shower, and appliance. Necessary for sediment or hardness that damages pipes and appliances. Highest upfront cost.
Common questions
It depends on filter type and your water quality. Pitcher filters: every 2 months (40 gallons). Faucet-mount: every 3 months (100 gallons). Under-sink: every 6–12 months. RO membranes: every 2–3 years, though pre-filters change more often. Hard water or sediment accelerates all of these timelines — sometimes by 50%. A clogged, overdue filter is worse than no filter at all because it can harbor bacteria.
No — and this is a critical distinction. A water softener removes hardness minerals (calcium and magnesium) through ion exchange, which improves scale buildup and skin feel. It does not remove lead, PFAS, bacteria, nitrates, or most other contaminants. If you have a softener but also have safety concerns, you need a separate filter — typically an RO system at the kitchen tap — in addition to the softener.
Usually, but not always. City water is treated and generally meets EPA standards — but those standards don't cover PFAS (which are now found in the majority of US municipal water systems), and older homes can have lead pipes or solder that leach into the water after treatment. If you have young children, are pregnant, or your CCR shows elevated contaminants, RO at the kitchen tap is worthwhile. For most people with average city water and no specific concerns, a good under-sink carbon filter is sufficient.
Generally not recommended as your only treatment. Well water can contain bacteria, heavy metals, nitrates, and other contaminants that pitcher filters (which are primarily carbon-based) aren't designed to address. If you're on a well, get your water tested first — a basic test runs $50–$150 and tells you exactly what you're dealing with. Then match the filter to your specific results. Most well water situations require an under-sink or whole-home system.
NSF 42 certifies that a filter reduces aesthetic contaminants — primarily chlorine taste and odor. Almost every filter has this. NSF 53 certifies reduction of health-related contaminants like lead, cysts, and VOCs. If your goal is safety, not just taste, look for NSF 53 on the specific contaminant you're concerned about — the label must list which contaminants are certified, not just that it "meets NSF 53."